Bac Ha Bingle

Vietnam (Sep 2009)

Our group of four had been in Vietnam for about a week when we arrived in Hanoi, the “northern capital” of Vietnam, where we hired motorbikes to go on a ride up through the north lands of Vietnam, the vistas & culture were fantastic, such a beautiful place that just made the ride that much more special, any way we had ridden through all sorts of weather including dust, mud & rain, and even a typhoon, so we thought that we had seen our fair share of dramas, but this was not to be the case!

We had just travelled down from a small city high up in the mountains named Sapa, see it’s story here, and ridden through this almighty storm that turned out to be a typhoon, so we arrived at Lao Cai right on the Chinese border cold & soaking wet, and quite uncomfortable, but this is all part of bike riding, so after literally empting the water out of our boots, we sat down to what the locals called coffee, now I am neither a brewster or a coffee connoisseur, but this one was memorably awful, we joked that you could probably stand the spoon up in it, anyway the much needed warm drink and caffeine hit was a failure, so after a short rest we put all of our soaking wet gear back on and headed out.

The first thing we had to do was to cross the Song Hong river which is right on the border between the two countries, Vietnam & China, anyway the traffic jam on this bridge was second to none, we waited foe a period with no progress at all, then one the guys noticed that the locals were using the side walkways as a motorbike roadway, it was just wide enough for the bike handle bars not to hit, so we decided all to give it a go, we were laughing, we were on our way and everyone else were still stopped, jammed in what we thought would be another hour or so, this was a great idea I remember thinking, however sometimes good things come to an abrupt end, you have to appreciate that the walking pert of the bridge was of course full of pedestrians and you could not see the other side due to all of the people, so when we got about half way across the bridge it all came to a stop, there was apparently some locals that had the same idea coming from the other side, and when we all met in the middle there was nowhere to go, someone had to reverse, whilst this was sorted out fairly quickly by the other side withdrawing, it took what seemed to be forever for him to reverse back, meanwhile the traffic on the bridge had cleared and was flowing well, but we were stuck on the sidewalk.

Anyway with that behind us, we set of to Bac Ha, a small village further north-east along the Chinese border, things were going well the weather had cleared, the road was great, up into the mountains again, making plenty of progress, a big change to the previous couple of days, but just then of course, one of our guys happened to go a bit wide on a hairpin right-hand bend, this put him in the direct path of an oncoming van, he was fair in the middle of the van’s path, so he had to take evasive action, he choose to go wider on to the right side of the van, this of course put him direct in line for the excavated wall of the mountain, that was just solid sharp rock, whilst he did pretty well in reducing speed and angle, however the inevitable happen, he hit the wall, down he went, I was right there saw, I the whole thing (I later joked with him that my only regret was that I didn’t get it on the video), he was lucky to be alive and not to have hit the van head-on.

We had a local Vietnamese guy as our guide with us “Luke”, he was great, he was on the phone straight away, getting an Ambulance, and speaking to the people in the van, we all of a sudden had twenty locals there & two truck loads of police, I think they were on exercises some where, they stopped had a look and kept going, we were about fifty kilometers from town, so it became a long wait, eventually the ambulance turned up, it was a small van similar to the one our friend “Phil” had almost hit, very basic inside, had a stretcher inside, and a small box of medical stuff and a small bottle of oxygen, well at this point after several hours, Phil was drifting in & out of conscenious, the doctor had given him a painkiller needle and attended to his broken arm, then we loaded him into the Ambulance and off they went, meanwhile Luke our guide had waved down a truck to ferry Phil’s smashed up bike back to Lao Cai which was where the hospital was.

We got to the hospital, unloaded Phil, no staff you have to do everything yourself here, so we the remains of our group became the nurses, we carried him in on the stretcher, whilst Luke negotiated with the reception about what had to be done, you have to pay cash upfront, there were a lot of sick and injured people already waiting, it was by this time getting late, so we decided to offer a bit more money to the hospital, (some might call it a bribe), but it was accepted and progressed us up through the queue, into the x-ray room we went, there was a radiologist there and no-one else, so I became the assistant, I had to hold Pills arm in the correct position while the radiologist hid behind a protective screen, what about me I thought?

Anyway I assisted with the x-rays, holding Phil’s arm in the various positions require, and of course Phil was letting me know about the pain every time I moved his arm with louder than normal grunts & screams, he was oviously in a bit of pain, I of course am up against the very machine that is taking these images, and after several images, I had a panic attack, as I still had my video camera on me, are my movies that I had taken over the last few weeks still OK, phew, they are, thank heavens I thought.

Meanwhile Luke had gone downtown to buy the medical supplies needed for Phil’s arm whilst the other two guys were busy ferrying the bikes to the train and to have them shipped back to Hanoi, as our bike trip was over, getting the bikes to the train was a story in itself but not now, Luke returned with the supplies to strap Phil’s arm up, while this was being done he had organised an 8 seater van to take us back to Hanoi as we had to get Phil to a proper hospital to get his arm fixed, eight hours later, we arrived in Hanoi, at the French hospital, 4:00am, very tired, hungry & dirty.

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Sapa Sanctuary

Vietnam (Sep 2009)

I invited several of my friends to come with me on a bike trip to see the sights of Vietnam, after spending some time in the southern parts of the country, we travelled north to Hanoi, we arrived in Hanoi at about 4.00am in the morning on the train from Hue (Central Vietnam, pronounced “way”), which I might add was a story in itself, but we did arrive safely despite being very tired, cranky, sore & hungry.  Anyway I had previously arranged to hire some motor bikes & a guide from a local motorbike business to take us for a 10 day ride up into the isolated northern mountainous regions of the country, to experience the fantastic scenery, local culture & cuisine, as you could probably appreciate you cannot carry much on a small 250cc trail bike, so each of us had a smaller bag in which we had to pack our gear into, and then strap it onto the bikes rear rack, which was done, Myself, being the photographer of the group, carry a handy cam camera, a small compac digital and a Nikon D300s with 18-200 lens on it, plus all of the chargers, cables, spare batteries, memory cards etc for each camera, this of course reduces much needed valuable room for your cloths, etc but I always seem to manage to get by with what I pack, I will say that the cameras, all three of them I carry on me, the video fits neatly into one of the side leg pockets of my cargo jeans, the compac in the other side leg pocket and the Nikon I hang around my neck, all day and often into the night.

Once packed, we were ready to go, and if you have ever ridden a bike in Vietnam you will know the meaning of organized chaos, there are just thousands of vehicles, pushbikes, motorbikes, trucks you name it, going in every direction, but somehow they seem to get to where they are going without to many bingles, but for us it was an experience.  Eventually we got out of Hanoi, and started heading north.

We rode through the fertile low areas just north of Hanoi, across many creeks & rivers, through the terraced rice paddies and up and down the mountains, on about the second night, we had the pleasure to stay at a village farmhouse that was setup to accommodate about 15-20 people, we arrived mid afternoon and was glad to have a rest, warn shower and a beer, there were five of us, and we felt right at home, then across the rice paddies we could see another group of bike riders coming towards us to also stay the night at the farm stay accommodation, which was great, we had a great evening swapping stories and having beers, they were from all over the world including the UK, USA & Australia to name a few, they were heading to Danang, which is where we had been about five days earlier, anyway the next morning we said our goodbye’s and left to go further north whilst they headed south.

After several days of riding we started to climb up into the high mountains, the roads got winder, and they also got narrower, in some cases you would come across landslides that had taken half the road away, disappearing into the valleys below, there where no safety fences on the sides of the roads, just straight down, thousands of feet in most cases, anyway we kept climbing deeper & further up the mountain ranges, At one on the places we stayed at we saw on the TV devastating floods in the Philippines from a typhoon that had hit it, and that it had tracked towards Danang where our other bike friends were going too, we could not understand the words but a picture is self explanatory, we found out later over emails that they were in the middle of the typhoon when it hit Denang, they were flooded, and had some great footage on YouTube.

Anyway back to us, we could see the weather getting worse where we were, heavy cloud building up, extremely humid, all of the signs of a pending storm forming and then it started raining, and I mean really raining & wind, it would have made any tropical island proud, the rain was that heavy, you could not see the road, visibility was reduced to about 10 meters I kid you not, we were kept very mindful of the landslides by our guide, and also about the shear drops, and of course the on-coming traffic, but we just had to keep going to reach our destination for the night, which was a place called Sapa, located at the top of the mountains about 6,000+ feet above sea level around 30 kilometers further on, does not sound far but on a good sunny day that would be at least an hour or more ride, but in this stuff who knows?

Even though we each had a plastic pancho type rain coat that we bought a few days earlier for about a dollar, we were soaking wet & very cold, but we eventually got there, to Sapa I mean, we arrived late in the afternoon, managed to get to the hotel and get showered and into some dry cloths, “SAPA SANCTUARY” at last we thought, this was the biggest town we had been to in a week, it even had hot showers and some food that we could recognize, like good old chips, and even a hamburger, admittedly it was made out of buffalo meat but it was great.  That night the rain just pelted down, it had to be the heaviest rain I have been in, it just poured and poured, the next morning it was still raining, we had breakfast, and discussed what would be our stratergy, would we keep going in the rain or would we wait it out, we were about to make the desicion to wait it out, then the rain eased and the sky cleared, beauty, lets go we all said, so we loaded up the bikes, fueled up and started heading out down the mountains towards the Chinese border at Lao Cai.

We got about 10 kilometers out of Sapa, and I could see this really strange fog /cloud coming up the valley at us, we were well above it, but it was coming straight up the valley towards us, in a wedge shape, you could see the rain starting underneath it and the trees getting knocked around with the wind, then just like before, down came the rain & wind, just as heavy as the day before, another day soaked to the skin, as it turned out, we were riding through the same Typhoon that had come across from the Philippines, and the eye had passed directly overhead of Sapa, a very hairy & memorable experience, but would not undo it.

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The Train Ride

Vietnam (Sep 2009)

I had planned a trip to Vietnam with a number of friends, four of us in total, I had spent many day & hours planning the trip, searching the web for places of interest to visit throughtout Vietnam, keeping in mine the various timeframes and places that we had to be on certain dates during our visit.  As I do my planning I always feel that we can rest when we get back, so I like to fill as many hours as possible doind as many things as we can, this of course leads to a very interesting but exhusting trip, so I try to break it up every 5 days or so with a “day off” to catch our breath.

So part of my plan was that after the first stint of hard touristing in the South of the country, we would fly from Ho-Chi-Min City to Danang very early in the morning and without any pre-planned arrangements we would have to make our way to Hue, about 100klm to the North, by 3:00pm the following day (an easy enough thing to do you would think but that is another story), to catch a train that would take us to Hanoi, a fourteen hour relaxing train trip.

I had spend some time investigating the trains services in Vietnam, and decided to book our tickets on the overnight train from Hue to Hanio, the website showed some basic info on the trains, cabins etc, so I booked an air conditioned four birth cabin for the four of us in the “First Class” car of the train, this would take care of the sleeping and guess what, the website mentioned that there was a restarunt car and another drinks car with a bar, Wow we were set, this is going to be fun, so I promoted this to the others and we were all looking forward to the train trip, can’t wait.

Anyway despite the the various events of getting to Hue, which almost put all of us into either the hospital or the morgue, we did make it to Hue later that day, and we spent the following morning looking around Hue.

Three O’clock arrived and it was time to catch the train, the train was late but it did eventually arrive, there were people evrywhere waiting to get on the train, and although we had our tickets we were getting concerned about will we get on, it took us a while to find our cabin, as the signage was all in Vietnamese and very difficult to try and understand any instructions that we were given, as we were looking for the First Class car, it was there alright but

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