Tag Archives: Jaime Dormer

Pre-Shoot Checks

Checking & Preparing your gear before every shoot is a very important part of photography, there is nothing worse than arriving at the location and finding you have problems with your gear, so I have compiled a list of things that I do every time before I go out again to shoot another location,;

Time & Date;

  • I use an iPhone app to provide a time mark to set / synchronise several cameras.

Batteries (Camera & Flash)

  • Ensure they are charged.
  • Carry extras,
  • Tip:  I only put the battery caps on the charged batteries, flat ones don’t have on.

Memory Cards;

  • Freshly format all cards;
  • Ensure that you have sufficient cards for the days shoot;

Prime Settings;

  • ISO – set to 200
  • ISO Auto Control – set to Off
  • Picture Control – set to Vivid
  • Color Space – set to Adobe RGB
  • File Type – set to RAW
  • Exposure Priority – set to Aperture
  • Metering – set to Average
  • Focus – set to Continuous
  • Focus Point – set to Single Point
  • EV Comp. – set to 0
  • White Balance – set to Auto
  • Shooting Mode – set to Single Shot
  • Lenses – set to Check Settings


  • Give your camera a clean with a dry clean cloth;
  • Remove the front UV filter and clean the lens glass, and both sides of the UV filter;

Bag Check & Safety Stuff;

  • Torch, make sure it works & is charged;
  • Spare charged batteries for Camera, Flash & Cable Release;
  • Tripod Plates, Flashgun, Harness
  • Garbage Bags, ensure that you have a number of them;
  • Spare Memory cards, Cable Release;
  • Full set of Filters, ie CPL, ND’s
  • Several dry clean cleaning cloths, Rubber bands, Black Marker & Pens;
  • Sunscreen, Insect repellent, Raincoat, Hi-Vis, Hat, Lanyard ID, Sunglasses, Spare reading glasses & suitable footwear;

I hope that the above information is of value to you, feel free to send me an email at admin@jdponline.com.au or simply give me a call if you would like to get more clarity on any of the above, I am always happy to help, cheers and good luck.

This website and its content is copyright of JDP Online Pty Ltd – © 2011.  All rights reserved.



It is always a good idea to have a tried & proven and established system in place to perform any repetitive task, this includes lots & lots of different things and more importantly the issue of post processing your images.

The first thing that I do once I have uploaded my original files to the computer and renamed them per my “File Naming Protocol” I will do a backup of the same files to second external hard disc drive, now that they are safely backed up, I can start to process these files at my leisure, which I will explain later on.

I currently use Adobe Lightroom for my image cataloguing, I find it easy to use and just as importantly it is also very quick, I have over a third of a million images in my library and it works fine, currently no real complaints, it is easy to import new images by simply synchronising the folders and it does the rest by itself, can’t get easier than that, by the way you can continue working while it does this too.

Anyway, once the images have been imported into the Lightroom library, I am able to bring up that folder and start viewing the images, either individually or as a screen full of small thumbnails.

I will browse these images and when I see something that I like, a simple click on it to select and press the spacebar to see a full screen version of it, if I like it, I then will give a score by pressing one of the numeric keys, I use the following numbers for my selection;

  • Press #1:    means that this image should be deleted, as it is an absolute failure, usually a shot of my foot or something simular, these will be deleted straight away or at the end of a session.
  • Press #2:     sometimes you will see an image that has something but you don’t have the time to look into it or start processing it at all, but it has something that you feel will make it a good image later once processed, these I call my seconds to comeback and view later shots.
  • Press #3:     These are the shots that I know there is something there, I usually will commence doing some post processing on them so by rating them as a three, I can come back at anytime and continue working on those files and hopefully take them forward to become a commercial image.
  • Press #4:     Once an image has been worked on and is looking really good, I will promote it to a “4”, this moves it up the chain towards an eventual release.  It still needs to be finished but is getting close.
  • Press #5:     When an image has reached this rating it is ready for release, everything has been done on it, it is now a special image that will be displayed on a wall somewhere in the world.
  • Press #9:     As I often shoot panoramas, I will mark a set of images with the rating of nine, this will mark them with a colour instead of a star rating, which can be searched later as required.

The great thing about this type of image rating system is that I can depending on my mood and the amount of time that I have to browse my image library is that it is not dependant on having to complete an entire folder, you just continue where you finished last time, or you can browse through any other folder in your library and apply the same ratings methods on the images.

Then when you are feeling creative and want to do some post processing, you simply go to your folder and filter the images with a rating of three, and you will have a grid of thumbnails to choose from to process, simple.  There is also a simpler way of doing this by creating a smart collection.

Now it is time to get to the real processing, firstly I will bring the image up in Lightroom developer module, by simply selecting the image and pressing the “D” key, I will then do some very basic editing like straightening the image, and adjusting shadows, highlights etc to see what the image is going to look like, If I think that I like what I see I will “right-click” on the image and select from the side menu to edit it in one of the optional software packages installed, currently I use Photoshop & Capture One.

If I have opened the file in Photoshop, I will follow these steps shown below, there is as it happens a method in this madness.

I use a five step process, the first step is to simply clean-up the image, by this I mean clean up the dust spots, level the horizon if it needs it, do all of the basic things that will apply to this image, I do not process this image with any  of changes at all at this stage, once done I will save this image as the first level of the image into a working folder on it’s own on my computer, this first image will be saved as the existing filename plus a letter/number combination added to the end, for example “1205010011A”.

Now that the “A” version has been saved, I can then start processing further, at each point once I have done some work on the image, I will again save it to the working folder using the same protocol I used previously but I will index the letter “1205010011B”, what this means is that this file is now a direct descendant of the “A” version of the file, I will continue to use this protocol until I reach the letter “E”, this gives me five versions of the file saved at various stages of processing.

Now here is the important bit, you may process your file and find that you have gone in the wrong direction since the “B” version of the file, so all you do is load up the B version of the file do some work on it and then save it as a “B2” version of the file (just added a number after it so as to keep it separate from the original set), followed by C2, D2 & E2, thus creating a processing path that is easy to follow.

By using this method, you can change direction at any stage and save it as a continuing set or path to the end final image, I have added a chart below to assist in the understanding of this process.  Please note that I normally do not add the number to the end of the first set, i.e. A1,A2, A3… just the letters only for the first set)

I hope that the above information is of value to you, feel free to send me an email at admin@jdponline.com.au or simply give me a call if you would like to get more clarity on any of the above, I am always happy to help, cheers and good luck.

This website and its content is copyright of JDP Online Pty Ltd – © 2011.  All rights reserved.

File Naming Protocol

It is important to acknowledged the post work required to maintain, edit, keyword, catalogue & archive a library of images that is taken from a short or long field trip, so I thought I might share my thoughts with others.

It use to frustrated the hell out of me, and I was surprised at the amount of time that it would take to manage a library of files post doing what you thought was the hard bit, taking them, I normally take between 200-500 photos a day when on a trip, and if at an event this could be up to 2,000 a day, so at a two day event I might take as many as 5,000 images with several cameras, and thus I needed a method to be able to manage them well and efficiently.

I have been asked this question many many times in the past and I thought that I might share this method with other photographers, so how I do it is detailed below;

The equipment I currently use in this procedure is as follows; Hardware: iMac 27″ & a Mac Mini Server, An External NAS Synology Drive with eight bays each with a 3Tb HDD, 2 x 4Tb Caldigit Backup Systems & a 10Tb Drobo, plus many Portable 1Tb Toshiba & Acer Ext HDD 750Gb drives, Software: Adobe Lightroom.

I save all of my photos directly onto an external hard drive into a folder specifically named after the event, the naming convention that I use is reasonably simple and allows for me to locate the original photo in the future very easily just by looking at the filename, so if I were to do a shoot of Surfing at Narrowneck, on the 15th of January, 2011 the name of my folder would be “20110115-SurfingNarrowneck” and it would be located on the external Hard Drive under “PHOTOS/2011”, I always separate the date and the details with a hyphen & I never use spaces in filenames, new words always start with a capital.

Once I have uploaded all of the files to my first Ext Hard Drive, I will import that folder of images into Lightroom, then go through them quickly and delete any photo that has any major defect (ie out of focus, shot of my foot, etc), once this process is done I will then rename them using Lightroom, the convention I use is as follows, Using Lightroom, I will select all of the images in the folder, click on <Libraury><Rename Photos>, a dialogue screen will appear, select from the dropdown menu, “Edit”, then I type in the date YYMMDD and add a 4 digit sequence number from the dropdowns below, then click on “Done”, this will return you back to the first dialogue screen, now just make sure that the “Start Number” is “1” then click on the “OK” button to rename the files.   The files will now be renamed as “1101150001”, “1101150002”, “1101150003”, “1101150004”, and so on.

By using this convention I can always find the original photo very simply and very quickly, because the photo filenames are always proceeded with the date, I know to look in the 2011 folder, January the 15th, simple, so therefore I already know where to find this file before I even get to my computer.

Believe me, I have dreamt-up & tried numerous versions of doing this job without success, this method has served me well since I implemented it 5-6 years ago, I now have no difficulty in locating files, it is simple to do and very time efficient.

I hope that the above information is of value to you, feel free to send me an email at admin@jdponline.com.au or simply give me a call if you would like to get more clarity on any of the above, I am always happy to help, cheers and good luck.

This website and its content is copyright of JDP Online Pty Ltd – © 2011.  All rights reserved.


Turning Professional …

Keep Records …

I am not talking about your tax records, I am talking about your photography triumphs, awards, where you were published etc, for it is this information that will help you build your resume and make great reading later on.

Camera Metadata …

Most of the DSLR cameras these days have the ability to add your personal & copyright information directly into the camera; these details will be added to every photo’s metadata automatically when you take them.

Get Experience …

Getting experience is hard work, how do you do it?, well it does not come to you, you have to go and get it, don’t be lazy, get out of bed, shoot that sunrise, early morning street scene, and just keep doing it over and over again.

I often shoot sports & events, and I am sure that you have often looked around at some of these events and said to yourself I wish that I could be that close to the action, well you can, you simply have to ask and then deliver.  The big advantage of shooting different sports & events is that it makes you learn your equipment backwards, you do not have time to muck around looking at manuals etc, you need to know your gear, and you will, doing this type of shooting.

It does not matter if you are interested in the sport although it does help, it is about the photographic environment that you are placed in, bright sunny day at the football or rowing, cloudy day at the archery, rainy day at the show, wrestling or ice hockey inside a stadium, dusty rodeo, superfast air shows & car races each sport/event has it’s own unique set of camera requirements that you have to get right, this will teach you about the available light and how to handle it as well as being able to set your camera up correctly and quickly.

Often some great shots are missed because you weren’t ready, didn’t have the camera set-up right, spent too much time menu surfing looking for that option to change the camera back to suit the shot, I am sure that this has happened to most, so if this is you then doing the above will certainly help you be ready next time.

Establish your Direction …

You need to establish your photographic direction as early as you can, so as not to waste time & money, by this I mean you need to decide what area of photography you wish to specialise in, be it wildlife, landscapes, architectural, portraiture, travel, documentary, sports, etc, just remember that different types of photography require different types of equipment, training etc, and it is one of the most important decisions that you will make, it could take you months or even years to decide, it is not something you should rush, as you could easily make the wrong choice, but it is something that only you can choose, just remember “that you cannot be everything to everyone”.

This was a very hard choice for me, so I thought that the best way to tackle it was to work out what I didn’t want to be, so in effect I worked backwards, erasing one form of photography out at a time, I found it much easier to do this way, then when I got to the last choice, I spent time with some well known famous photographers to obtain their thoughts on my work and to seek their opinion as to what suited me best.

Create an Image Library …

If you are going to be selling images, framed or unframed, limited or open editions, then you need to build yourself a substantial image library, this of course takes a lot of time and effort, but get use to it, as this is the path you have chosen.  I set myself goal to generate a library of around one thousand commercial images by the time I am ready to go fully professional.  To do this you need to take a lot of photos, and I mean a lot, you will end up with several hundred thousand images to achieve this goal, this takes a lot of work, dedication and I might add storage.

Shoot RAW …

Early in your photography career you probably have or are shooting in whatever format the camera defaulted too, normally “jpeg”, and this is fine, the advantage of this file format is that the files aren’t too big, they are immediately viewable by almost everything and can be sent directly to a printer, the image data is processed by the camera based on the cameras internal settings, like white balance, saturation, contrast, sharpness etc and is then compressed into a   jpeg file and saved to your memory card, the rest of the data is discarded.

A RAW File on the other hand is exactly that, it is the raw unprocessed data received by your cameras sensor and saved directly onto the memory card, it is substantially larger than a jpeg, simply because it holds all of the data for later processing.

  • 8 bit JPEG file can record 256 intensity levels per pixel;
  • 12 bit RAW file can record 4,096 intensity levels per pixel;
  • 14bit RAW file can record 16,384 intensity levels per pixel;

Whilst there are a number of different opinions on which format to use, however it does go without saying that they are all based on what current technology can do with the file today and not in 1,5, 10, or 20 years from now, look at the progress that technology has made in the last ten years, so for my money I continue to save in RAW format, it is simple mathematics.

Backup your Work …

DLSR camera image size is getting bigger and bigger, 12, 16, 24 megapixels are common place, all this data needs to be stored, and you will need a lot of storage, gigabytes & terabytes of it, because the word back-up means that this is not your working file, it is a back-up copy of the original.

It is always advisable to also have an off-site backup of the same files, thus a third copy, so the storage requirements are enormous for large libraries, however on a brighter note the cost of the storage has come down considerably, allowing you to purchase a one terabyte drive for around one hundred dollar mark.  The big tip here is ensure that you have them, as you cannot re-create those valuable images, once gone there gone.

Do Workshops …

Workshops are great, you will learn heaps of additional skills for yourself, so do as many workshops as you can, learn from other photographers, look at what they are doing, take notice of what other people are asking questions about, take an interest in how they do it, write down your experiences, think about how it could have been improved if it could, what was missing if anything, what were the good & bad things, did everyone enjoy it, if so why, you can then use all of this valuable information to assist yourself in designing your own workshops, remember to always create a connection with the tutor, as it is these relationships that will open doors later on down the track.

Create a Website …

Build a professional website that will showcase your work, ensure that it is the best that it can be, for this is your shop front that people you don’t know will judge you by, remember that you will not get a second chance to create a first impression, test every page and every link, put the effort in and you will get the rewards. Put information on it that others can use for free, be it something like you are reading now, or just your own reviews on things or equipment etc, give people a reason to stay a while on your sight.

Start Teaching Others …

Part of being a successful professional is to have confidence in yourself, by teaching others your skills generates self-confidence, and the designs for future workshops from which you will generate income.

Start with taking one or two friends out on a shoot, you know your local area, so design a simple workshop in your head with some objectives, get them to come along and start tutoring them, help them understand what it is they are doing right & wrong, help in the post processing, take an interest in their work.

Do it again and again, until you yourself get good at doing these “workshops”, then all you have to do is document it and you are ready to generate income from them.

Product Quality …

You might be able to sell a sub-quality product or service once, however you are unlikely to sell it again, bad news travels fast, whilst good news takes the slow lane, in today’s market place with the internet and social networking channels a bad experiences will travel literally at the speed of light.

So, learn from others in the industry, what are doing and why, where are they getting their work produced, is it top quality, do not settle for less, make sure that the entire sales, production & delivery process is going to add to your product and not detract from it, this should include things like the sale experience, processing, image production, framing, freight, delivery & refund processes.

Establish Costs …

There are many guides available to work out how you should costs things out, just remember that you won’t go broke making a profit, simple as that.

You should work out the cost of each component of your business, like labour, equipment & overheads, these should be costed out into saleable units, examples would be labour costs per hour, studio day hire rate, rent cost per month & insurance costs per year to name a few, once this is done, all you have to do is work out how much of each item you need for each of your products, don’t forget to add on applicable taxes and profit margins.

I know from my own experience that if you do not set up a price list for your products & services, you will never know what to charge, it will change all of the time, and it will just get worse, to a point where you start price cutting to get work, and this will only have one outcome.

Set Some Rules …

Establish the rules of engagement early and everyone will be happy.

Know what is included and what’s not when doing a job, and make sure that your client knows this up front when quoting, provide them with a list of additional options available to them as well as the associated costs, deliver on time, do not deviate from this or you will end up doing it for free.

Key-wording Images …

Key wording is important for people to find your images amongst the billions of images out there, when someone gets to your site and they enter some key words into your site search engine, they want result, if they don’t get it they will get frustrated or even worse they will move on to someone else’s site.

The big trouble with key wording is thinking up the appropriate keywords to enter against an image, to help simplify this develop a list of keywords that will suit all of the image that you take, by this I mean create groups of keywords, some example groups may be Colours, Water, Country, and so on, using these groups, I simply add all of the variables that would occur in them to create a reference sheet.

So for example in the colour group, I would add all of the basic common colours that I am likely to have in my images, red, green, black, orange, yellow, blue, white etc, then if at sometime I need to add another one to the list you can, it then becomes part of the reference list for future use, under the group Water, I would add all of the different types of water bodies there are, like lake, sea, ocean, channel, river, creek, pond etc, once you have created your basic list, you can then refer to it as you keyword your images, if the keyword that you want is not on the list, again add it to one of your groups, or even start a new group, this way your keywords will be useful & always the same when use, the list will also make it easier to select keywords rather than thinking them up every time you want to keyword an image.

Join Professional Organisations …

Join some industry organisations that represent your photography interests, become involved and meet other photographers, learn as much as you can from them, no one knows everything, so the more people you talk too the more informed you will become.

Additional advantages of some of these organisations is that they provide Photo ID lanyards & badges, this helps to show the general public that you are a bona-fide photographer.

Strive to be Better …

It is hard to soar like an eagle when you are surrounded by turkeys, associate & surround yourself with people that you hold in high regard, the ones you want to be as good as, this will make you do better simply by association, if you are the best photographer in your group then start associating with better skilled photographers, by this I do not mean that you need to dump all of your current peers, far from it, simply add more.

Now, Go Pro

I hope that the above information is of value to you, feel free to send me an email at admin@jdponline.com.au or simply give me a call if you would like to get more clarity on any of the above points, I am always happy to help, cheers and good luck.

This website and its content is copyright of JDP Online Pty Ltd – © 2011.  All rights reserved.


This is a must, there are plenty of companies that will insure your gear, but only a few that specialise in it, I have had the sad experience of dropping a camera, landed face down in the mud & sea, total write-off, major problem let me tell you, the camera was about a week old and cost as much as a luxury car, however I did have all of my equipment insured, so I was fortunate that I had that in place!.

An important note however, make sure that you have insured your gear for the right value, I insured this particular camera for what was written on the invoice, as I had received a discount from the full retail price the invoice total did not reflect the true replacement cost which was several thousand of dollars more, which I had to pay for.

Check your house contents policy as it could already have some form of basic camera insurance in it, however if you become fully professional, then you will need proper speciality photography cover, public liability to start with, this is when you need to talk to a company that specialises in photographers insurance, I use & recommend Professional Photographers Insurance Brokers, I have had the unfortunate experience of destroying some equipment and PPIB were great, no fuss, seamless claim, end result happy.

Building up the Bag

My suggestion is to build your equipment slowly, get to know your gear one bit at a time, and do a lot of research before buying each item, remember that for most of us buying is an emotion that is hard to control, and a salesman is normally skilled in selling it, although I have met many that aren’t.

If you do the research and have established that you are happy with the result, beware of last minute alternatives put in front of you, as it quite possible it won’t be what you want, what I can tell you is, that you only have to buy quality equipment once, it will work first time, every time, and it will last.

Some of the important reasons that I chose to go with Nikon DLSR cameras is their build quality & weather sealing and their commitment to maintain lens compatibility both forward & backward with a few very minor exceptions, this is important to me because whatever lens I have it will still be able to be used on future camera models, the second part of this is that good lenses are always good lenses, which means that even an old second-hand lens will still deliver a sharp quality image, and of course be cheaper.

Compatibility Tips …

Plan for the future, look at compatibility before you buy, an example when buying a new lens, look at it’s bigger & smaller brothers, what similarities do these share, i.e. filter sizes, with cameras, you can take into account things like batteries, memory cards, remotes & flashes, with tripods look at the plates, batteries for torches, flashes & remotes, all of these can help you save money.

I hope that the above information is of value to you, feel free to send me an email at admin@jdponline.com.au or simply give me a call if you would like to get more clarity on any of the above points, I am always happy to help, cheers and good luck.

This website and its content is copyright of JDP Online Pty Ltd – © 2011.  All rights reserved.

Fujifilm X-T1 Camera

I will start of by telling you the reason I bought this camera, I needed a small reliable quality camera to take with me when I travel, I have tried many different brands & models, and none have fully suited my needs to date, I looked at the previous versions of the small Fujifilm series some time ago when they first came out, and I thought that they were just that too big and cumbersome, so by-passed them on several occasions and ended up purchasing something else instead.

I am a landscape photographer, I am always out and about at sunrises & sunsets, in the best and worst weather conditions, wind, rain, snow, hail, darkness & shine, and I get sick of carrying my heavy large DLSR & MF gear around, I need something light and easy to use when I don’t want to be a packhorse.

So prior to a long trip that I had planned in Europe, I decided to revisit this again, so I contacted my camera equipment supplier L&P Digital Photographics in Sydney, and they kindly lent me a system to test for a week to help me make my decision.What I was after was a light weight all weather camera, that could shoot wide and medium, deliver a quality image under very limited light handheld, with what I call a high ISO up to 6400, and be sharp as a tack with little to no noise, as well as having interchangeable lenses, good battery life, iPhone camera remote, GPS Tagging, WiFi connection, be easy to use and give me all of the flexibility of my bigger heavier DLSR’s and MF cameras systems, I did not want much I hear you think. So after a weeks testing in the field in very low light prior to dawn and after sunset, I tested different lenses at different ISO’s and apertures, processed the images and printed them to various sizes up to a meter, so the decision was made to purchase the camera with the XF10-24mm f/4 R IOS wide lens (@15-35mm fullframe equivalent)and a XF60mm f/2.4 R Macro lens (@91mm fullframe equivalent).

I have used this camera in all sorts of conditions and it has stood up well to the hiding that I have given it so far, I am very happy with it, and would buy it again, there are a few issues that I hope will be fixed over time, I have listed them below, please remember that these are my views on this camera, they are not scientific lab tests, merely in the field shoot as you go observations and experiences, and they are based on my factual experience and are not an in depth review of all the functions & abilities of the camera.I was shooting with the camera using the free Fujifilm iPhone WiFi remote control App that they supply, I found that the App was easy to use, and allowed you to control the various settings to get the shot, furthermore it also allowed me to set up the shot, then shoot the image each time by adjusting the focal point, meaning that I could later do a focus stack, great feature. How when I returned back to my computer and downloaded the images that were all jpegs and not RAW files despite have set up the camera to shoot RAW, I checked the settings in the camera, to see if for some reason it had been changed to jpeg format, no it had not.

I searched the internet to see if there was any answers to this, and there were several blogs on the issue, but none of which seemed to be able to be definitive about wether the camera could shoot RAW files when using the iPhone App remotely.  Further investigations revealed that as soon as you set the camera up to shoot at ISO100 which is “L1” on the ISO dial (it also happens at “H1” & “H2”), the camera immediately goes into jpeg file format. To me this is an issue, so I hope that Fuji make some changes in the future as I would like it to be fixed!!

So you CAN’T shoot RAW at least not at that ISO 100 setting, the native ISO of the sensor is ISO 200, if this is selected/chosen then you can shoot remotely in RAW, it also will create a .jpeg as well at the same time.


  • I have found that it is very water resistant, I was shooting ice on the beach in Iceland from a very low angle about 3” (8cm) above the ground, and a bigger than normal wave came in and swamped the camera fully, I immediately grabbed the camera, and washed it extensively using a full bottle of fresh water, another drowning, dried it off and switched it on, no problems at all, had to use a toothbrush later on to properly clean filter threads etc as the fine sand from the beach was everywhere.
  • Battery life stands up to image numbers as promoted (suggested 350 in brochures), I have been getting between 310 to 520 images per charge.
  • Found that the IOS on the 10-24mm lens is very good, could hold images sharp as a tack at ISO3200, 1/3 second.


  • Unable to shoot RAW files at ISO100
  • Unable to shoot RAW files when using the shutter timer function
  • Would like to see bigger locations dots on the lens/camera to pair them up, as very small red dots are hard to see in low light.
  • EV dial hard to turn with single finger, perhaps the dial wheel could be more grippy so that your finger grips it better to turn it.
  • Image display after the shoot has been taken is either continuous, 1.5sec, 0.5sec or off, what about 5sec or 10sec, something useful!! I cannot review an image in 0.5 or 1.5sec and continuous works against battery life in the field.

POINT SCORE (0=Bad, 10=Good)

  • 10/10 Battery Life
  • 10/10 Weather Resistance
  • 08/10 Lens Changing
  • 07/10 EV Control Dial/knob
  • 9/10 Noise control up to ISO 3200
  • 10/10 Image Stabilisation on the 10-24mm lens
  • 10/10 Weight
  • 7/10 Auto Image Display post shot.


All in all, a very nice small camera with a lot of ability, Yes I would recommend it to others, on the understanding that they take on board the issues that I have pointed out above, they are not game changes, but can be annoying, and YES I would purchase it again.

Jaime Dormer
Professional Photographer
JDP Online Pty Ltd

Chapter 1

Australia, Malaysia, (Jul, 2014)

I thought that I would try to document as best as I can my trip, I hope that you will enjoy my travels, we will see.  I encourage you to leave a comment or even advise on potential spots that I should divert too, I await your guidance if you have it.

Just so you know in the lead-up to my two month trip, I spent a bit of time not just researching the trip but also marketing my un-captured images, I put forward to various clients an option to purchase a 40″ Limited Edition image from the images captured on my trip, they get first pick of what image they want at a set price, Each image will have only 11 in the edition, two of which are not for sale (1 x Artist Proof & 1 x Charity/VIP print).  So they will get One of the Nine available images left in the set, I am happy to say that these pre-sales have paid for 50% of my trip and will be a great deal for the purchaser’s. So if anyone is interested in joining them please let me know by personal FB message if you can.  (anyway enough of the marketing, sorry!!)

So to start the ball rolling, I Left home with my darling wife at 6:00am to get to the Gold Coast Airport by 6:30am, all good little traffic, booked into AirAsia “Business Class” Yes, and continued through to the International departure lounge.  Met a bloke who used to fly for Singapore Airlines, lives on the coast and alternatively in Indonesia.  He was telling me that he knew the chief pilot and the other crewies on the flight that was shot down over Ukraine, he actually trained the chief pilot, talk about a small world.

Anyway got onboard and away we went, no dramas all good, AirAsia airlines are mega polite, great service and very comfy thanks very much.  The guy I was sitting next to in my flatbed seat (just thought I would rub that one in again) job was interior designs for a hotel/resort chain, so potential work maybe was the parting comment, you just never know do you.  Took a few images out the window near Darwin on the way over, arrived in Malaysia at the main terminal, it would have to be four times the size of Brisbane International, the last time I was here it was a back water and it was not that long ago.

Anyway got through immigration, no paperwork to complete, just walk unto the counter, give them your passport & boarding pass, quick scan of your two index fingers and all done, see you later, grab your bags and gone.  Australia could learn a lot from this !!!,  now I am waiting for my connection flight to Paris, on Air France, five hours to go, so time to chill as my sone would say.  So went to the mobile counter, got a new sim and 5gb data, you beauty, now on the internet, cost about AU$30 bit of an overkill, but it is better than facing the Telstra bill when I get home.  So now I have logged onto the web, went to my personal fackbook page and was inundated with comments on my pending trip, thanks to all that commented and liked, it is appreciated, I just hope that I can live unto your expectations.